No megalithic sightseeing trip to Sligo would be complete without a trip to the other big Carrow, the major megalithic site of Carrowkeel, a series of cairn covered passage mounds, scattered high atop of the Bricklieve mountains. So, after Carrowmore, it was straight back to the car and a 37 km drive to the Bricklieve mountains. As we approached this elevated limestone formation from the valley, I couldn’t help thinking that the Bricklieves were more steep hills than mountains. Although, that said, they offer breath-taking views of the surrounding countryside, and this reason alone makes them well worth a visit.

The brisk walk from the carpark to the cairns took just over half an hour, but as a leisurely stroll you can expect to take closer to three quarters or an hour and be warned the final rise is steep. Unlike the open plains of Carrowmore, being so high up gives the site with its arial views has a much different feel about it. And after traversing by some hostile looking sheep, and a downed Hawthorne tree, blocking our narrow path, I was able to look down on lough Arrow, and its lake islands to the east, while north-west, the angular profile of the seemingly omni-present Benbulbin, at least while in Sligo, was clearly visible.

*Sligo landscape from Carrowkeel with Benbulbin in the background*

The main area of Carrowkeel is made up of 14 circular cairn covered passage graves, dotted around the top of the Bricklieve mountains. The diameters of these structures average around 20 metres. A handful of them are still in good condition, with their entrances, passageways and chambers still intact, while others have collapsed back into the earth. These monuments, unlike other major megalithic sites such as Brú na Bainne, Knowth, and Carrowmore, have never undergone modern reconstruction work.

*Cairns of Carrowkeel, atop Bricklieve Mountains*

While maybe we shouldn’t, we did a get a little closer to the entrance than maybe we should for a peek inside the more accessible Cairn G. This passage mound, like the others is constructed from local limestone, with some of the heavier load-bearing points propped up by sandstone. Using carbon dating, archaeologists have dated these structures to having been built around 3,500 BC, making them well over 5,000 years old. The earliest excavations of the site revealed the remnants of shiny white quartz mineral in both the chambers exteriors and interiors, for more decorative purposes, unfortunately they have since been pillaged by souvenir collectors.

Cairn G, with a diameter of 21 metres is particularly interesting, being the only chamber with a light box built into the roof of its chamber. The roof box was designed for astrological observation; its position aligned perfectly with the light of the rising summer solstice sun.

In terms of orientation, these monuments were clearly built to be visible from the north, i.e Carrowmore, so in this sense, rather than being two separate sites, they are considered by many historians to be part of one greater overall megalithic landscape.

They were built as graves, and landmarks which could be seen from afar to mark boundaries or territories and convey their builders’ domination over the region.

These monuments were also built with celestial observation in mind, and most likely for ritualistic purposes too. Although we cannot know for sure what these rituals entailed, they no doubt related to the cycle of the seasons, in turn representing themes of birth, life and death. Perhaps even rebirth too. All this points to a society far beyond simple farmers, one which was highly organised with a great interest in their world and the heavens above it.

Their Myths

In terms of myths, Carrowkeel shares similar stories with Brú na Bainne (Boyne Valley, Newgrange/Knowth) and Loughcrew, Ireland’s most impressive megalithic monuments located in the east of the island, and is associated with several of the same deities. Again, like Loughcrew, the Caileach features in a landscape creation tale where she builds the mountains of Bricklieve by scattering pebbles from her apron.

According to ‘The Book of Invasions’ see my previous posts on Carrowmore and Brú na Boinne for more details, Carrowkeel is said to be the site of the second battle of Moytura, where the magical god-like race of the Tuatha de Danann defeated the fearsome Fomorian tribe.

Another Tuatha de Danann story connected to the site is the prophecy of a great flood, supposedly caused by a hidden lake beneath the mountains which bursts due to their great mill wheel spinning out of control. Other tales claim the cairns themselves to be the majestical homes of prominent de Dannan gods, such as the Dagda and Angus Og, pagan gods also connected in the mythology surrounding Brú na Bainne.

Carrowkeel

Their Myths

Carrowmore

N.W. Bulfin